Monday, September 23, 2013

Monday 23rd September - Stonehenge and Bath

Today we had a full day trip with The English Bus company, and have had a wonderful day. We had to meet at Kennington Tube station at 8:45. As it was a Monday morning and we didn't know how busy the Tube would be, we decided to go straight to Kennington, and then try to pick up breakfast in the area. Well, that didn't work - this is a residential area, hardly any shops at all. All we managed to find was a couple of small local supermarkets - bought iced tea!

The mini bus and our guide, Chris, turned up about 8:35, and we were all loaded (16 passengers) and ready to go by 8:45. Chris provided a good commentary as we made our way out of London, on our way to the first site - Stonehenge. We had a comfort stop on the way, and managed to get something for breakfast.

Stonehenge was amazing, and no, they really don't know why, how or who built it! They do know that it was built in 3 stages - the first was a series of timber posts, about 5000 years ago. The second was the inner circle, about 4700 years ago, and the last, the outer circle, the largest or sarsens, around 4400 years ago.

There are lots of theories about its beginnings, but none have been proven one way or the other. Options include major manpower and lots of time, Merlin, the Devil, Druids, and even dinosaurs (that last one isn't too serious!) Overall, this does not diminish the spectacle of this impressive site. You can't help but be in awe that prehistoric people managed to move such huge slabs of stone from a considerable distance away (from Wales several hundred kilometers in the case of the second stage), trim them to regular shapes and stand them up. Then there are the crossbeams or lintels. The sarsens have a large bump poking out of the top, and the lintels have a matching notch so they link together to stabilize the entire structure. But how did they manage to get those huge stones up on top??? It is still a mystery.

Also, there was an avenue of stones that led up to Stonehenge, it was almost 3 km long, and lined by a bank and ditch that ran its full length, and can still be seen (particularly from the air) today. Then there is the fact that at summer and winter solstice, at sunrise and sunset respectively, the sun shines right through the centre of a gap in the sarsens, and at the 20th - 21st of each month, it shines through the centre of the next gap around.

Back on the bus and we drove through some typical English countryside and villages to Bath. This was a longer stop, and lunchtime. Chris had recommended the local Pasty shop, so we tried them - they were okay, but when you make things yourself at home, bought ones just don't quite taste the same. Bath is a beautiful city, all the buildings are constructed of the local bath stone - a type of limestone. The entire city is built in Georgian style, and most buildings were originally built between the early 1700's to the mid 1800's. Repairs after bombing during WW2, were completed in this style, and all new buildings must conform too.

There were many pretty streets to wander, the inevitable church with beautiful stained glass windows, a picturesque river with ancient bridge and a park with beautiful flower gardens. The streets and shop awnings were decorated with hanging baskets full of flowers. Chris also took us on a guided walk around the exterior of the baths that gave the town it's name.

The baths have been popular for over 2000 years, there is evidence that they were used before the Romans came in the first century BC. Shortly after the Romans conquered Britain, they found the hot springs and built a proper Roman Bath House around them. When the Romans left some 300 years later, the buildings were left uncared for, they decayed and were destroyed. After years of erosion and flooding the Roman ruins were actually buried and lost.

The springs were rediscovered and developed at different stages over the centuries, they became particularly popular during the Georgian period as a holiday spot for the wealthy, and that is when the city really grew. The building that is now called 'The Roman Baths' was actually built in the 19th century. The 'bath' in here was used until the late 1978 when they realized that the water was not particularly clean (a young girl died from an infection picked up here), so it closed again. There is now a new complex where you can swim and have spa treatments, and the water is chlorinated as well, to ensure it is clean. The water in the old Baths is decidedly green.

The Pump House is now a very classy restaurant, where high tea is very popular. A pianist plays at the grand piano while you dine under the chandelier. You can pay 50p and try a glass of the warm water - it wasn't too bad.

Finished with our explorations of the town, Chris drove us to the two famous streets of Bath: The Circus (a full circle of houses around a park, split only by the entrance of 3 streets) and The Royal Crescent (true to its name, a crescent of houses that overlook a park). Although The Royal Crescent is the most famous one (and most expensive) most of us actually preferred The Circus. The houses in The Crescent have very plain facades, while those in The Circus are very fancy - a different type of column on each level, carved ridges between, and a row of carved faces around the top.

It was time to say goodbye to Bath, and head in the general direction of London, but we were not finished with our touring. Chris had promised us two 'secret places' on the way back, and he did not disappoint. I am not going to mention the name of the two villages, as we were all sworn to secrecy!!!

The first was a 300+ year old village that is owned by the national trust. They rent the old houses out at very reasonable rates to make an income that helps with upkeep. There is a bakery, a church, and, of course, a pub. All utilities are underground - the village looks like it would have hundreds of years ago, except that there are cars. The village has been used for movie sets, including Pride and Prejudice and Harry Potter's parents house is here. It was wonderful!

Back on the bus for our last stop, and it was another circle of standing stones - there are actually lots of them, and not only in England. I was particularly pleased with this one as I have read a book set there. This circle is MUCH larger, in fact, the village is largely inside the circle. The stones are also surrounded by a man made bank and a ditch, and you can actually walk around and touch the stones, whereas Stonehenge is cordoned off. In the centre of it all is the village pub, with it's beautiful thatched roof. Inside, one of the tables is built over the old town well. The table has a glass top, so you can still look down into its depths!

Now it was time to head for London. It wasn't long before it was getting dark. Chris dropped off different groups close to their hotels or appropriate tube stations, and we were last. By the time we ordered dinner at a local restaurant, it was 9:30, but we had had a great day. Needless to say, blog was not finished that night!

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